In Japan, October and November is the time for fall foliage, autumn food (chestnut, pacific saury, rice, etc.), the sea of clouds phenomenon and hot spring.
For my early November trip to Japan this year, I decided to do a road trip mainly covering the Koshin'etsu (Nagano and Niigata prefectures) and Southern Tohoku (Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures) regions, because the autumn colors at these regions would be at their peak.
We were thankful that the places we decided to go to were not affected by Typhoon Hagibis which struck 2 weeks before our trip. However, some of the mountain roads were undergoing works due to landslides, so traffic was slower due to the merging of lanes at some parts of the journey, especially in Nagano prefecture（長野県）.
We were thankful that the places we decided to go to were not affected by Typhoon Hagibis which struck 2 weeks before our trip. However, some of the mountain roads were undergoing works due to landslides, so traffic was slower due to the merging of lanes at some parts of the journey, especially in Nagano prefecture（長野県）.
We rented a car from Tokyo for 7 days and paid for the Japan Expressway Pass (20,400 yen). Considering that the toll fees incurred was around 35,000 yen, the pass provided around 40% savings.
Day 1: Haneda Airport to Shirahone Hot Spring（白骨温泉）
The first location on our list was Kamikochi in Nagano prefecture, as autumn colors here typically peak in late October, which meant that we were late. We drove for 4 hours to Shirahone Onsen nearby where we stayed for the night, stopping for lunch at Koufu（甲府）in Yamanashi prefecture（山梨県）on the way. The mountain roads leading to Shirahone Onsen were narrow. Enjoyed soaking in milky white hot spring in the cold weather! Awanoyu ryokan (Japanese inn) is famous for its outdoor bath with autumn colors.
Day 2: Kamikochi（上高地）and Hirugami Hot Spring（昼神温泉）
Kamikochi is a popular resort in the Northern Japan Alps. Shirahone Onsen is about 10 minutes-drive to Sawando bus terminal, the closest one can get to Kamikochi by private transportation, as private vehicles are not allowed to drive into Kamikochi. We left our car at the bus terminal and took a 20-minute bus to Taisho pond（大正池）in Kamikochi.
From there, it was about 4 km walk to Kappabashi（河童橋）, which took 1-2 hours. This route is recommended for non-hikers or those pressed for time. We managed to enjoy beautiful autumn foliage although it was already November 1. Weather was good and the temperature was slightly above 10 degrees Celsius, comfortable for hiking in a jacket. I rarely hike, but surprisingly enjoyed Kamikochi very much. For hikers, it would be nice to visit Kamikochi together with nearby Norikura Kogen（乗鞍高原）in October.
After Kamikochi, we had delicious soba for lunch, specialty of Nagano prefecture. We then drove 2 hours southwards to our ryokan at Hirugami Onsen in the same prefecture, which was on the way to Nagoya city where we would be meeting our friends for lunch the next day.
Day 3: Heavens Sonohara, Nagoya city（名古屋市）and Shimosuwa Hot Spring（下諏訪温泉）
Hirugami Onsen is near Heavens Sonohara, one of the places to enjoy the sea of clouds phenomenon in Nagano prefecture. We were very thankful that we managed to see it the next morning, despite only having one chance. However, we were a little late and caught the sunrise in the gondola on the way up, instead of together with the sea of clouds at the peak. Did not foresee that we needed time to scrape ice off the windscreen and heat up the car. Unexpected drama early in the morning!
Day 3: Heavens Sonohara, Nagoya city（名古屋市）and Shimosuwa Hot Spring（下諏訪温泉）
Hirugami Onsen is near Heavens Sonohara, one of the places to enjoy the sea of clouds phenomenon in Nagano prefecture. We were very thankful that we managed to see it the next morning, despite only having one chance. However, we were a little late and caught the sunrise in the gondola on the way up, instead of together with the sea of clouds at the peak. Did not foresee that we needed time to scrape ice off the windscreen and heat up the car. Unexpected drama early in the morning!
Another place in Nagano prefecture to enjoy the sea of clouds phenomenon is Sora Terrace, which is probably more convenient for those intending to focus on the Koshin'etsu region.
We drove 1.5 hours to Nagoya for lunch with friends, then drove back and further up to Shimosuwa Hot Spring (2.5 hours) in the middle of Nagano prefecture, which was on the way to our next destination-- Karuizawa. On hindsight, we should have booked a hotel instead of another ryokan, as a third consecutive night of kaiseki (Japanese multi-course) dinner was simply too much for me :P Still, the ryokan stay was really enjoyable, so no regrets~
Day 4: Karuizawa（軽井沢）
We drove to Karuizawa the next morning. Nagano is very mountainous, so driving from one town to another is more time-consuming than it looks on the map. Plus it was the Sunday of a long weekend, so the 1.5 hour-drive turned out to be 2.5 hours due to traffic congestion. The traffic at and near Karuizawa was horrendous. Judging from the car plates, it seemed that not just those living nearby but also Tokyoites flocked to Karuizawa to spend the long weekend.
It was my third time to Karuizawa, but the first time by car and during holidays. After visiting Shiraito Falls（白糸の滝）which was rather underwhelming, we queued for parking at a free area near Kumoba Pond（雲場池）and our lunch destination. The wait at our lunch venue was 90 minutes (!!), so we left our names and visited Kumoba Pond in the meantime. The autumn foliage here was stunning, enhanced by the reflection in the pond.
We covered the remaining places in Kyu-Karuizawa（旧軽井沢）on foot as all the roads were congested and finding parking was difficult. It seemed that taking public transport would not be much better, as the buses were packed and trapped in the jam as well. Bicycle rental might have been the best option, provided there was enough supply. I guess one thing I learnt was to avoid Karuizawa during holidays.
We left Karuizawa earlier than planned, yet reached our accommodation for the night later than expected. (Also because we accidentally spent too much time at the Yokokawa Service Area on the way, one of the best I have been to.) We drove for 2+ hours to a pension (Western-style family-run accommodation) in Minakami Kogen（水上高原）at the north of Gunma prefecture（群馬県）. The Western-style 4-course dinner with wine was a nice change from the kaiseki dinners on previous nights.
Day 5: Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku（宝川温泉汪泉閣）, Dragondola, Kiyotsu Gorge（清津峡）and Yahiko Park（弥彦公園）
The next morning, we visited Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku ryokan which has the largest outdoor bath（露天風呂）in Japan and is famous for autumn colors. I had wanted to stay there, but was attracted by the good reviews for the nearby pension, so decided to visit Takaragawa for day onsen instead. Entry is 2000 yen and comes with rental clothes for the mixed-gender outdoor bath. To welcome foreign guests, the ryokan has made it compulsory to wear the clothes provided.
(Google image)
It was an incredible experience, enjoying panoramic autumn foliage while soaking in hot spring in cold weather. My only issue was the cleanliness. As there are no showering facilities at the outdoor bath and the indoor and outdoor baths are not connected, many visitors enter the outdoor bath without showering. Heard that the mixed changing area was quite dirty and smelly too. Recommend showering at the indoor bath before and after enjoying the outdoor bath.
The plan for the rest of the day was to check out autumn foliage in Niigata prefecture（新潟県）, which was on the way to Yamadera in Yamagata prefecture. We first headed for Dragondola, the longest gondola in Japan. This gondola connecting 2 ski resorts is famous for its autumn views, but it does not seem to be that famous among locals (none of my Japanese friends have heard of it). 3000 yen for a round-trip was rather expensive for a gondola ride, but the seemingly endless autumn colors throughout the ride justified the cost. It was very cold (6 degrees Celsius) and photos were not great due to the downcast weather, but saw a double rainbow on the way down!
Next, we drove an hour to Kiyotsu Gorge, one of Japan's top 3 gorges. I was not impressed with the views there, but it was interesting how the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel combined art with natural scenery. The tunnel runs 750m through the gorge and has 4 viewpoints. It would be nice if there was no need to step into the water to see the view at the last viewpoint.
Our last stop for the day was Yahiko Park, 2 hour-drive northwards. By then, the sun had set (around 5 pm), which was just nice as the Maple Valley in the park would be lit up in the evening from late October to late November. It turned out to be rather disappointing, partially due to the lighting. Too few lights, yet the lighting was too strong. The photo below is after touch-up.
Our accommodation for the night was a business hotel in Niigata with free parking of course. For dinner, we went to an izakaya nearby recommended by the hotel staff. We ordered Niigata specialties (seafood, rice, sake) and the dinner was so good it made me want to return to Niigata for a fourth time~
Day 6: Yamadera（山寺）, Naruko Gorge（鳴子峡）, Ginzan Hot Spring（銀山温泉）
The next morning, we drove 3 hours to Yamadera in Yamagata prefecture（山形県）. Yamadera is a scenic temple located in the mountains northeast of Yamagata city. The temple grounds spread across a steep mountainside and it takes 1000 steps to reach the top for panoramic views. The climb was easier than I thought, but the view was also less impressive than expected. Still, it was an enjoyable experience and helped to burn some calories.
Next, we drove 1.5 hours to Naruko Gorge in northwestern Miyagi prefecture（宮城県）, famous for its autumn colors. The views were gorgeous!
That night, we stayed at Ginzan Hot Spring. Similar to Kamikochi, it does not allow private vehicles into the area. Thanks to that, the design of the ryokans and the compactness of the town, Ginzan Onsen retains the vibe and scenery from the Taisho era. It is very atmospheric and beautiful both in the day and night. There are also ashiyu (foot baths) along the street, but they are very hot!
We drove 1.5 hours to Nagoya for lunch with friends, then drove back and further up to Shimosuwa Hot Spring (2.5 hours) in the middle of Nagano prefecture, which was on the way to our next destination-- Karuizawa. On hindsight, we should have booked a hotel instead of another ryokan, as a third consecutive night of kaiseki (Japanese multi-course) dinner was simply too much for me :P Still, the ryokan stay was really enjoyable, so no regrets~
Day 4: Karuizawa（軽井沢）
We drove to Karuizawa the next morning. Nagano is very mountainous, so driving from one town to another is more time-consuming than it looks on the map. Plus it was the Sunday of a long weekend, so the 1.5 hour-drive turned out to be 2.5 hours due to traffic congestion. The traffic at and near Karuizawa was horrendous. Judging from the car plates, it seemed that not just those living nearby but also Tokyoites flocked to Karuizawa to spend the long weekend.
It was my third time to Karuizawa, but the first time by car and during holidays. After visiting Shiraito Falls（白糸の滝）which was rather underwhelming, we queued for parking at a free area near Kumoba Pond（雲場池）and our lunch destination. The wait at our lunch venue was 90 minutes (!!), so we left our names and visited Kumoba Pond in the meantime. The autumn foliage here was stunning, enhanced by the reflection in the pond.
We covered the remaining places in Kyu-Karuizawa（旧軽井沢）on foot as all the roads were congested and finding parking was difficult. It seemed that taking public transport would not be much better, as the buses were packed and trapped in the jam as well. Bicycle rental might have been the best option, provided there was enough supply. I guess one thing I learnt was to avoid Karuizawa during holidays.
We left Karuizawa earlier than planned, yet reached our accommodation for the night later than expected. (Also because we accidentally spent too much time at the Yokokawa Service Area on the way, one of the best I have been to.) We drove for 2+ hours to a pension (Western-style family-run accommodation) in Minakami Kogen（水上高原）at the north of Gunma prefecture（群馬県）. The Western-style 4-course dinner with wine was a nice change from the kaiseki dinners on previous nights.
Day 5: Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku（宝川温泉汪泉閣）, Dragondola, Kiyotsu Gorge（清津峡）and Yahiko Park（弥彦公園）
The next morning, we visited Takaragawa Onsen Osenkaku ryokan which has the largest outdoor bath（露天風呂）in Japan and is famous for autumn colors. I had wanted to stay there, but was attracted by the good reviews for the nearby pension, so decided to visit Takaragawa for day onsen instead. Entry is 2000 yen and comes with rental clothes for the mixed-gender outdoor bath. To welcome foreign guests, the ryokan has made it compulsory to wear the clothes provided.
It was an incredible experience, enjoying panoramic autumn foliage while soaking in hot spring in cold weather. My only issue was the cleanliness. As there are no showering facilities at the outdoor bath and the indoor and outdoor baths are not connected, many visitors enter the outdoor bath without showering. Heard that the mixed changing area was quite dirty and smelly too. Recommend showering at the indoor bath before and after enjoying the outdoor bath.
The plan for the rest of the day was to check out autumn foliage in Niigata prefecture（新潟県）, which was on the way to Yamadera in Yamagata prefecture. We first headed for Dragondola, the longest gondola in Japan. This gondola connecting 2 ski resorts is famous for its autumn views, but it does not seem to be that famous among locals (none of my Japanese friends have heard of it). 3000 yen for a round-trip was rather expensive for a gondola ride, but the seemingly endless autumn colors throughout the ride justified the cost. It was very cold (6 degrees Celsius) and photos were not great due to the downcast weather, but saw a double rainbow on the way down!
Next, we drove an hour to Kiyotsu Gorge, one of Japan's top 3 gorges. I was not impressed with the views there, but it was interesting how the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel combined art with natural scenery. The tunnel runs 750m through the gorge and has 4 viewpoints. It would be nice if there was no need to step into the water to see the view at the last viewpoint.
Our last stop for the day was Yahiko Park, 2 hour-drive northwards. By then, the sun had set (around 5 pm), which was just nice as the Maple Valley in the park would be lit up in the evening from late October to late November. It turned out to be rather disappointing, partially due to the lighting. Too few lights, yet the lighting was too strong. The photo below is after touch-up.
Our accommodation for the night was a business hotel in Niigata with free parking of course. For dinner, we went to an izakaya nearby recommended by the hotel staff. We ordered Niigata specialties (seafood, rice, sake) and the dinner was so good it made me want to return to Niigata for a fourth time~
Day 6: Yamadera（山寺）, Naruko Gorge（鳴子峡）, Ginzan Hot Spring（銀山温泉）
The next morning, we drove 3 hours to Yamadera in Yamagata prefecture（山形県）. Yamadera is a scenic temple located in the mountains northeast of Yamagata city. The temple grounds spread across a steep mountainside and it takes 1000 steps to reach the top for panoramic views. The climb was easier than I thought, but the view was also less impressive than expected. Still, it was an enjoyable experience and helped to burn some calories.
Next, we drove 1.5 hours to Naruko Gorge in northwestern Miyagi prefecture（宮城県）, famous for its autumn colors. The views were gorgeous!
That night, we stayed at Ginzan Hot Spring. Similar to Kamikochi, it does not allow private vehicles into the area. Thanks to that, the design of the ryokans and the compactness of the town, Ginzan Onsen retains the vibe and scenery from the Taisho era. It is very atmospheric and beautiful both in the day and night. There are also ashiyu (foot baths) along the street, but they are very hot!
Day 7: Back to Tokyo
The next morning, we checked out the area before embarking on the 5 hour journey back to Tokyo, stopping for lunch and short breaks on the way of course. We also dropped by Tendo Hot Spring Rest Area（道の駅天童温泉）and bought a lot of Tohoku souvenirs.
After returning the rental car, we stayed in Tokyo for another 3 days. The weather in Tokyo was more autumn-like, but we already started missing the scenery and spaciousness of rural Japan.
I suppose there may be better ways to arrange the destinations I covered, however, there was a need to consider the peak timings for autumn colors at the various places. Those who prefer to cover less may want to choose between the Koshin'etsu region and the Tohoku region. There are also regional expressway passes worth considering.
However, if the intention is to make use of the 7D nationwide JEP, long traveling distances is necessary to make it worth, just like the nationwide JR pass. Somehow the places I want to go at a particular time of the year always happen to spread across different parts of Japan, so going for the nationwide pass is usually easier and more cost-effective for me. Note that not all car rental shops provide the JEP option.
The next morning, we checked out the area before embarking on the 5 hour journey back to Tokyo, stopping for lunch and short breaks on the way of course. We also dropped by Tendo Hot Spring Rest Area（道の駅天童温泉）and bought a lot of Tohoku souvenirs.
After returning the rental car, we stayed in Tokyo for another 3 days. The weather in Tokyo was more autumn-like, but we already started missing the scenery and spaciousness of rural Japan.
I suppose there may be better ways to arrange the destinations I covered, however, there was a need to consider the peak timings for autumn colors at the various places. Those who prefer to cover less may want to choose between the Koshin'etsu region and the Tohoku region. There are also regional expressway passes worth considering.
However, if the intention is to make use of the 7D nationwide JEP, long traveling distances is necessary to make it worth, just like the nationwide JR pass. Somehow the places I want to go at a particular time of the year always happen to spread across different parts of Japan, so going for the nationwide pass is usually easier and more cost-effective for me. Note that not all car rental shops provide the JEP option.
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