One of the things I like most about Japan is its old towns and castle towns with Edo period houses. Perhaps it is due to period drama and anime, or the enjoyable experience of roaming the streets of Hida-Takayama during my first trip to Japan. Really like the relaxed, nostalgic vibe of such towns.
So during my stay in Japan, old/castle town was always one of my main reasons for picking a certain region/place to visit. Before I realized it, I have been to 36 castles/castle ruins, inclusive of the 12 original castles dating back to the Edo period. Though there are still many more that I have not been to yet.
Among those I have visited, below are 15 outstanding ones that left me with deep impression. (Disclaimer: I am no expert in castles. I just enjoy visiting them.)
1. Matsumoto Castle（松本城）, Nagano prefecture（長野県）
Matsumoto Castle is 1 of the 12 original castles and 1 of the 5 castles designated as national treasures. Also known as the Crow Castle due to the black exterior, this grand flatland castle was the seat of the Matsumoto domain during the Edo period. However, the castle dates back to the Sengoku period and some of the current structures were built in 1594! The original keep and inner walls survived, but several gates have been rebuilt since 1960. What is unique about this castle is that it has a secondary keep and a turret connected to the main keep. Heard its night illumination is magnificent too!
2. Himeji Castle（姫路城）, Hyogo prefecture（兵庫県）
Also 1 of the 12 original castles and 1 of the 5 castles designated as national treasures, Himeji Castle is known for its elegance and complexity. This hilltop castle is also the largest and most visited castle in Japan. It became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1993.
Himeji Castle dates back to 1333 and was remodeled in 1581 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In the Edo period, Ikeda Terumasa was awarded the castle by Tokugawa Ieyasu, who expanded it into a large castle complex.
It underwent renovation in recent years and finally re-opened in March 2015. (The 2nd photo was taken in 2014.) It is a great place for cherry blossom viewing because of its spacious grounds with lots of cherry trees.
3. Matsuyama Castle（松山城）, Ehime prefecture（愛媛県）
1 of the 12 original castles, Matsuyama Castle left me with a strong impression because going up to this hilltop castle by chair lift is an experience in itself. It is also a complex castle with multiple wings and a secondary keep.
The castle was originally built by Kato Yoshiaki in 1603. Later, it was assigned to the Matsudaira family, relatives of the ruling Tokugawa family. The current 3-storey castle keep was constructed in 1820, after the original 5-storey keep was destroyed by lightning.
4. Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle（備中松山城）, Okayama prefecture（岡山県）
Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle is the only mountaintop castle out of the 12 original castles, and also the oldest among them. The castle was originally constructed in 1240, when castles primarily served as defensive fortresses. Typical of mountaintop castles, it is small and the keep is only 2-storey.
It is one of the most inaccessible castles I have been to. I had to take a taxi to the nearest parking lot and hike up approximately 20 minutes. Due to its elevation, it is possible to view it in a sea of clouds from the nearby mountain on some days of the year.
5. Takeda Castle Ruins（竹田城址）, Hyogo prefecture（兵庫県）
When talking about castle and sea of clouds, Takeda Castle Ruins, also known as the Machu Picchu of Japan, comes to mind. Takeda Castle was built as Izushi Castle in 1441 by Otagaki Mitsukage. It was conquered in 1577 by Hideyoshi Toyotomi. The last lord of the castle was Akamatsu Hirohide, who committed seppuku when he was accused of arson, and the castle was abandoned.
The famous "sea of cloud" view can be seen from the adjacent hill called Ritsuunkyo（立雲峡）, but chances are quite low. There are many weather conditions to be met, such as huge weather difference between night and day, good weather, etc. I managed to see it on my 2nd attempt in November 2013.
6. Nijo Castle（二条城）, Kyoto prefecture（京都府）
Built in 1603, Nijo Castle was the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. His grandson Iemitsu expanded it and added a 5-storey castle keep. However, the castle keep was struck by lightning and burned down in 1750. After the Edo period, the castle was used as an imperial palace before being opened up to the public as a historic site.
It was designated as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. Although it no longer has a castle keep, its Ninomaru (secondary circle of defense) Palace is really outstanding, with beautiful sliding doors and ceiling. In spring, it is also one of the must-visit places in Kyoto for cherry blossom viewing at night.
7. Karatsu Castle（唐津城）, Saga prefecture（佐賀県）
This low profile rebuilt castle is interesting because it uses the ocean as a natural moat. The view from the top of the keep is impressive, offering a panoramic view of the ocean.
The castle was built in 1602-1609 by Terasawa Hirotaka. At the end of the Edo period, it belonged to the Ogasawara clan of the Karatsu domain. It was demolished in 1872 and the current structures were reconstructed in 1966.
8. Shuri Castle（首里城）, Okinawa prefecture（沖縄県）
Shuri Castle was originally built in the late 1300s. The current structures are reconstructions dating back to 1992.
This castle is atypical of Japanese castles, from its color to its design. It is a UNESCO world heritage site under the collective title of Ryukyu Kingdom related properties.
The main buildings were destroyed by fire in the night of October 31, 2019. Works are underway for it to be rebuilt by 2022.
9. Kumamoto Castle（熊本城）, Kumamoto prefecture（熊本県）
Probably the most outstanding and famous castle in Kyushu, Kumamoto Castle is a large hilltop castle with 2 towers in its castle keep. It dates back to 1467 and the current castle keep is a reconstruction built in 1960. Its Honmaru Goten Palace building with beautiful sliding doors is also impressive.
Kumamoto Castle was severely damaged by earthquakes in April 2016. Repair works are ongoing and the interior of the keep is scheduled to reopen to public in 2021. However, it may take as long as 20 years to be fully repaired.
10. Hirosaki Castle（弘前城）, Aomori prefecture（青森県）
Out of the 12 original castles, Hirosaki Castle is the only one in the Tohoku Region. It dates back to 1611, but the current keep was completed in 1811. It belonged to the Tsugaru clan who ruled the Hirosaki domain.
Hirosaki Castle is one of Japan's best cherry blossom viewing spots, with many weeping cherry trees planted within the grounds, somei yoshino around the moat, and petal-filled moat when the season comes to an end. Renovation works are ongoing but visiting is not affected.
11. Osaka Castle（大阪城）, Osaka prefecture（大阪府）
Although Osaka Castle is a rebuilt castle, it is the castle for Toyotomi Hideyoshi's rule, 1 of the 3 great unifiers in Japan's history. The inside is like a museum with many Toyotomi-related exhibits. It is also a good place for cherry blossom viewing, thanks to the numerous somei yoshino trees.
12. Nagoya Castle（名古屋城）, Aichi prefecture（愛知県）
Just like Osaka Castle, Nagoya Castle is also a rebuilt castle but of great historical importance and extensive exhibits. It was constructed by the orders of Tokugawa Ieyasu, another great unifier in Japan's history. There is also a Tokugawa Art Museum with many precious artifacts just beside, so visitors can enjoy a comprehensive walk through Edo period history when visiting the area.
The castle's main keep is closed for reconstruction from 2020.
13. Aizu Wakamatsu Castle（会津若松城）, Fukushima prefecture（福島県）
Also known as Tsuruga Castle, this castle was originally built in 1384. During the Edo period, it was the seat of the Aizu domain, a Tokugawa stronghold in the Tohoku region. The Aizu domain fought hard against the new imperial army during the Boshin War in 1868 but lost. The castle was demolished in 1874 and the main tower was reconstructed in 1965.
The roof tiles are red, which is unique compared to other Japanese castles. Although it is a relatively low profile castle to foreign tourists, it actually has many exhibits comparable to that of Osaka or Nagoya. It became more famous in recent years due to NHK Taiga drama Yae no Sakura（八重の桜）. Actors' costumes are displayed there too.
14. Matsue Castle（松江城）, Shimane prefecture（島根県）
1 of the 12 original castles, and 1 of the 5 castles designated as national treasures, Matsue Castle is the 3rd largest castle in Japan. It looks like it has 5 storeys, but there are actually 6! Built in 1611, it was assigned to the Matsudaira clan in 1638.
It is a very well-maintained castle with exhibits inside. A must-visit when in Matsue, a scenic and historical city surrounded by lakes.
15. Kochi Castle（高知城）, Kochi prefecture（高知県）
Also 1 of the 12 original castles, Kochi Castle is one of the few castles that was not only used for military purposes, but also as residence. It is the only castle that has all buildings in the Honmaru (main circle of defense) intact since the Edo period.
The castle was first constructed in 1601, but most of the buildings date back to 1748 when they were reconstructed after a fire. During the Edo period, it belonged to the Yamauchi clan who ruled the Tosa domain.
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